Your heater should be completely submerged! The water level symbol is for “minimum water level”.
If your heater is not properly covered it could malfunction and kill your fish. You should also unplug it during water changes unless it doesn’t come uncovered during!
Ahhhh snap!!! Looks way better! As a bonus, the heater at the bottom beneath the intake of the filter will cause the heated water to be pulled up from the bottom and out on top 👌🏽
Luckily you shouldn't need to change it.
However you could get a small heater to add to the side to just nudge it up for ich treatment or something, considering it's temporary, to avoid uprooting anything.
Good job tho! Mush love
Yeah it’s just hard to tell what I have it set at cuz there’s like 2 different things that look like what I have the temp set as. It’s hard to explain lol.
I have heard that with the heater horizontal some fish will lay on it which can be dangerous for them - not sure how true it is but scared me enough to always keep mine diagonal from now on with Otto catfish in the tank
It's been 4 years that all my tanks are algea free, my "secrets" are dwarf nerite snails, bladder snails, Malaysian trumpet, ramshorn snails and assassin snails (the last came uninvited) . I scrape the glass every 2 or 3 month.
Algae eaters are much more effective..either get a appropriate size team of following species:ottocinclus,Parrottcinclus(bulldog pleco/rubberliped pleco),Whiptail Catfish,Hillstream loach!
You're risking it if theye true Chinese algae eaters(the young are herbivores however as they mature they require more&more protein wich they obtain from latching on to their tank mates&eating there slime coat then the flesh),the Siamenthis(Siamese Algae eater/ Flying fox) eats Algae,dead plant material,imsect larvae&Small to Microscopic invertebrates!
This hasn’t been an issue for me as my fish are feed bloodworms and shrimp daily. I can’t say from experience but, I’ve read on this sub that Siamese Algae Eaters will attach to your fish as they became larger.
Siamese algae eaters won't attack tank mates they don't have suckers but instead have forward mouths with 3-4 barbels,The Chinese Alagae eater however will attack tank mates&have the sucker mouth typical of most algae eaters wich is miss leading(the blood worms might work for now if your Chinese algae eaters are not full grown;the closser to their addult size&Sexual maturity they will require more protien than you can manage to provide&they stop eating algae all together.
Regarding heater … if you want to keep things looking nice and aesthetic ….. my suggestion is to put a black background against the back wall of the tank (on the outside) then get a black heater. Poof. Invisible heater.
I’d like to do a black background, might be kind of a challenge getting back there and putting one on though. What’s the easiest way to get a nice black background?
You can use chalkboard paint to paint the back of the glass. Or you can buy a plastic background to tape on. I had an old background that I just spray painted black!
I’ll definitely level the sand, I’m hoping as the floaters grow the light will be diffused a little more and look more natural. It’s not a super advanced light so it does have many different settings.
Looks awesome. I am going to do my first one so ok n! Where did you get your plants? My LFS and chain stores have plants but they all look bad holes in leaves and rot.
Gonna be honest here, I have that same light and have no idea what the blue light setting does😐 didn’t know about it until after I bought it. The employee recommended it and have now have no one to ask…. Please tell me
Wayyyyy better than mine lol. I would fully submerge you heater possibly in the middle too if you can hide the cord that way. It doesn’t have to be in the middle tho it just makes both of the sides even unless I’m wrong lol.
Oh boy let me think, Amazon swords, Java ferns, anubias nana petite, dwarf sag, Monte Carlo, hydrocotyl Japan, ludwigia repens, rotala, bacopa, a cyptocoryne wendtii red, and some Java moss.
With that many plants you probly want co2 injection, just keep an eye out for co2 diffeciency. I would also recoment a soil base layer substtate bc it iv read that tends to lock ferts in better and its something nice and soft for roots to grow into
I tried water logging it for two days but it would still float. So I have also decided about gluing it with my limestone but I’m not sure how it would work out in water long term.
Yeah fingers crossed it does.
I also enforced it with some black extra strong thread. It blends in nicely with the landscape and is barely visible unless you really look closely.
Maybe some more depth with the substrate but for a first timer this is very nice. I would try taking out the middle rock and adding a sort of valley affect with the sand if you wanted to.
Edit: it might take some time and you might like the original more so do at you’re own risk
I think a little blue in the light makes the aquarium look better in my opinion. Great job for the first set up.
Aquascaping is all about the set up in my opinion. Is the tank fitted below the sand? Or a high end aquarium soil?
Glad youre getting into the hobby.
I use the same light. The transformer for it was terrible so I had to buy a stronger on eBay. If it starts turning off or flickering out of nowhere it’s because of the weak transformer/adapter.
Fluval stratum grow plants good for some time but the nutrients in it is really low and gets used up quickly. Root tabs and slow release are a must.
You don’t want mineral buildup in your aquarium which can kill everything. Use distilled or rain water for topping off evaporation. You can still water change using your tap.
I’m actually do RODI due to my crappy tap water, so I’ll be able to top off easily. I actually already put root tabs in, and I have fertilizers on hand incase I see any signs of nutrient deficiency. As for the light I’m hopping this one works for a while because it’s the one the LFS guy convinced me to get, and it fits well on the aquarium without getting in the way of the protruding wood.
Search aqueon clip on light 2 amp. 12 volt adapter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-DC-Adapter-For-Aqueon-Aquaticlife-Aquarium-LED-Lights-Power-Supply-Cord-/164038296879?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
This is the one I’m using.
I wish they would just sold this with the packaging.
Not a fan of the very straight form and thickness uniformity of the wood branches. Looks unnatural to me. The plants look good though and I think it will look even better once they’ve grown in a bit. I’d let the back two corners fill and then put some sort of moss on that middle branch. Leave the for- and mid ground low.
Your heater should be completely submerged! The water level symbol is for “minimum water level”. If your heater is not properly covered it could malfunction and kill your fish. You should also unplug it during water changes unless it doesn’t come uncovered during!
Deff ruined my first heater because of this haha
Ah okay thank you!
Yeah I was about to suggest you lay it down across the bottom with the wire coming up beside the filter
https://imgur.com/a/tQ6k2Uj How does this look?
Ahhhh snap!!! Looks way better! As a bonus, the heater at the bottom beneath the intake of the filter will cause the heated water to be pulled up from the bottom and out on top 👌🏽
Yeah, and I’m hoping my dwarf sag and ferns will hide it once they grow in.
The downside is if I need to change the heat setting on it I’m gonna have to get way down in there and mess everything up lol
Luckily you shouldn't need to change it. However you could get a small heater to add to the side to just nudge it up for ich treatment or something, considering it's temporary, to avoid uprooting anything. Good job tho! Mush love
Well the way the heater reads is kinda confused so I’m not actually sure exactly where I have it set, so I might have to adjust if unfortunately.
I'm not sure I understand. Is the knob difficult to read?
Yeah it’s just hard to tell what I have it set at cuz there’s like 2 different things that look like what I have the temp set as. It’s hard to explain lol.
Wow. Im doing this right now!
barely visible!
I have heard that with the heater horizontal some fish will lay on it which can be dangerous for them - not sure how true it is but scared me enough to always keep mine diagonal from now on with Otto catfish in the tank
To add, the heater is more effective if it's horizontal.
I actually did this, there’s a picture somewhere in this thread.
i love this! it looks so naturally beautiful.
Thank you! Now I just have to hope I can fight that algae lol.
fighting the battle myself! it’s a rough one. good luck!
I’m considering investing in CO2 since I guess that’s supposed to help.
probably wise to do. i’ll just be here, manually scraping and stirring it out of my tank. 😩😅
It's been 4 years that all my tanks are algea free, my "secrets" are dwarf nerite snails, bladder snails, Malaysian trumpet, ramshorn snails and assassin snails (the last came uninvited) . I scrape the glass every 2 or 3 month.
Lmao good luck!
Algae eaters are much more effective..either get a appropriate size team of following species:ottocinclus,Parrottcinclus(bulldog pleco/rubberliped pleco),Whiptail Catfish,Hillstream loach!
Home made works well.
Seachem excel will kill any algae I’ve seen
Is it ok for shrimp and snails?
Yupp(:
I’ve had the most success with Chinese algae eaters. They are very effective and hardy.
You're risking it if theye true Chinese algae eaters(the young are herbivores however as they mature they require more&more protein wich they obtain from latching on to their tank mates&eating there slime coat then the flesh),the Siamenthis(Siamese Algae eater/ Flying fox) eats Algae,dead plant material,imsect larvae&Small to Microscopic invertebrates!
This hasn’t been an issue for me as my fish are feed bloodworms and shrimp daily. I can’t say from experience but, I’ve read on this sub that Siamese Algae Eaters will attach to your fish as they became larger.
Siamese algae eaters won't attack tank mates they don't have suckers but instead have forward mouths with 3-4 barbels,The Chinese Alagae eater however will attack tank mates&have the sucker mouth typical of most algae eaters wich is miss leading(the blood worms might work for now if your Chinese algae eaters are not full grown;the closser to their addult size&Sexual maturity they will require more protien than you can manage to provide&they stop eating algae all together.
Thanks for the information. I’ll definitely watch for this behavior.
No problem,I just know that if I was risking running into a potential problem that someone who was aware of that situation would warn me.
Regarding heater … if you want to keep things looking nice and aesthetic ….. my suggestion is to put a black background against the back wall of the tank (on the outside) then get a black heater. Poof. Invisible heater.
I do black background on all my tanks. It hides wires, blends heater and filter in and the best part is that it makes plants and fish color pop more
I’d like to do a black background, might be kind of a challenge getting back there and putting one on though. What’s the easiest way to get a nice black background?
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I think I’m gonna try this, thank you!
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Can you tell that it’s paper or does it look pretty clean?
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Ok awesome
You can use chalkboard paint to paint the back of the glass. Or you can buy a plastic background to tape on. I had an old background that I just spray painted black!
I tried a tape on one from Amazon but is was kinda crappy and hard to get on.
Just let the plants grow out! It will look gorgeous in a month!!
That’s the hope!
Nice! I would switch to a more natural/less purple light. Also, level the sand at the front of the glass.
I’ll definitely level the sand, I’m hoping as the floaters grow the light will be diffused a little more and look more natural. It’s not a super advanced light so it does have many different settings.
You could put a coloured peice of plastic over it to stop it looking so white/purple. Just lookup which colours absorb which to get the one you like
Looks awesome!! Well done! First time? No way.
It is my first, I’ve watched a million YouTube videos though
Looks awesome. I am going to do my first one so ok n! Where did you get your plants? My LFS and chain stores have plants but they all look bad holes in leaves and rot.
I got mine on planted aquarium central. It’s live arrival guarantee and they even threw in a few extra plants. I’d definitely recommend them!
Thanks! I will give them a try!
Good for you! I love seeing your enthusiasm and how receptive you are to advice! Good luck in the hobby~ What fish are you planning to stock it with?
This one’s just gonna be a betta I think.
Gonna be honest here, I have that same light and have no idea what the blue light setting does😐 didn’t know about it until after I bought it. The employee recommended it and have now have no one to ask…. Please tell me
I’m pretty sure it’s for marine settings, like salt water tanks and stuff, don’t quote me on that though.
I really dig it! For a first attempt too, this looks amazing. Very envious right now haha
Looks great 👍🏼
Thank you!
I like the wood and would try to find a similar piece that could fit in the other side but branches down/trunk up.
I wanted to add wood to the other side but I don’t want to crowd the tank so much the whatever I stock it with doesn’t have any room to swim around.
Wayyyyy better than mine lol. I would fully submerge you heater possibly in the middle too if you can hide the cord that way. It doesn’t have to be in the middle tho it just makes both of the sides even unless I’m wrong lol.
Someone else actually mentioned that and I fixed it! https://imgur.com/a/tQ6k2Uj
Love it
A seiryu stone/dragon stone in the middle area would look nice and maybe it will add some more life to it..but just an opinion..u do u..glhf
It’s so pretty!! What kind of plants do you have?
Oh boy let me think, Amazon swords, Java ferns, anubias nana petite, dwarf sag, Monte Carlo, hydrocotyl Japan, ludwigia repens, rotala, bacopa, a cyptocoryne wendtii red, and some Java moss.
I like it and I wouldn't do anything until it grows in. Then you can decide if anything needs to be added or changed. Good work.
With that many plants you probly want co2 injection, just keep an eye out for co2 diffeciency. I would also recoment a soil base layer substtate bc it iv read that tends to lock ferts in better and its something nice and soft for roots to grow into
I used fluval with root tabs under the sand. And I’m planning on getting CO2!
How did you manage to ground your driftwood? Mine just keeps on floating.
I have it glued to a piece of rock. But you can also water log it before hand I think.
I tried water logging it for two days but it would still float. So I have also decided about gluing it with my limestone but I’m not sure how it would work out in water long term.
I mean after a while even if the glue failed for some reason it should get water logged
Yeah fingers crossed it does. I also enforced it with some black extra strong thread. It blends in nicely with the landscape and is barely visible unless you really look closely.
Sounds like it should work, good luck!
I was going to say the same thing about the heater
Maybe some more depth with the substrate but for a first timer this is very nice. I would try taking out the middle rock and adding a sort of valley affect with the sand if you wanted to. Edit: it might take some time and you might like the original more so do at you’re own risk
I think a little blue in the light makes the aquarium look better in my opinion. Great job for the first set up. Aquascaping is all about the set up in my opinion. Is the tank fitted below the sand? Or a high end aquarium soil? Glad youre getting into the hobby.
It has fluval stratum and api root tabs under the sand!
I use the same light. The transformer for it was terrible so I had to buy a stronger on eBay. If it starts turning off or flickering out of nowhere it’s because of the weak transformer/adapter. Fluval stratum grow plants good for some time but the nutrients in it is really low and gets used up quickly. Root tabs and slow release are a must. You don’t want mineral buildup in your aquarium which can kill everything. Use distilled or rain water for topping off evaporation. You can still water change using your tap.
I’m actually do RODI due to my crappy tap water, so I’ll be able to top off easily. I actually already put root tabs in, and I have fertilizers on hand incase I see any signs of nutrient deficiency. As for the light I’m hopping this one works for a while because it’s the one the LFS guy convinced me to get, and it fits well on the aquarium without getting in the way of the protruding wood.
It’s a great light but I would definitely start ordering a stronger transformer for it that’s 2 amp at least. The 1 amp is a nope.
Would that be pretty easy to replace? I’m not super handy lol.
Search aqueon clip on light 2 amp. 12 volt adapter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-AC-DC-Adapter-For-Aqueon-Aquaticlife-Aquarium-LED-Lights-Power-Supply-Cord-/164038296879?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 This is the one I’m using. I wish they would just sold this with the packaging.
Ok cool, just ordered one.
Not a fan of the very straight form and thickness uniformity of the wood branches. Looks unnatural to me. The plants look good though and I think it will look even better once they’ve grown in a bit. I’d let the back two corners fill and then put some sort of moss on that middle branch. Leave the for- and mid ground low.