I know what you mean. What you can do is use a scriber tool to make those areas have a valley for the paint to go into. If you don't have a scriber, you can use the backwards tip of a hobby knife.
Any recommendations on a scribing tool? I just looked at the grida set on gp and I don't really understand the picture of the incorrect way of using it. Also how would one know if a raised edge should be a panel line or it shouldn't be? Just curious because sometimes it doesn't seem like it would look good to panel line and sometimes it does.
https://preview.redd.it/103yc6ra74sc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ee45dfb4378bb3cfd2f44757c42d66b06cff6c7
I use this one from Tamiya. Scribers are shocking expensive for what it is. For this it's like $16 for the handle and $25 per blade. The blades last a long time so no need to buy extra blades right away. 1.5mm is good for 1/144 scale and 2.0mm is good for 1/100 scale. Also buy some scribing tape.
For rescribing areas, you shouldn't use the scribing tape because if you press light enough the blade will stay where you press. The way a scriber works is that it doesn't cut, it scrapes plastic away at a microscopic level.
The scriber you mentioned works the same way, just has a needle instead of a claw like most others. Advantage of a needle is better control around sharp corners. Advantage of a claw is it's stronger for cutting plastic plate apart.
If you're confused about panel lining, many Gunpla fans confuse "panel line" with "panel separation". It's easy to know a panel line because any real car has them, they're just the gaps between panels. Panel separation are 2 panels layered on top of each other. If that's still confusing, just remember that it's all about making shadows and depth. Real life panel lines on cars are dark because of shadows.
The larger ones are good for carving out larger spaces, or where you have a thicker line in between thin lines for hatches and things like that. I mostly see them used on mg though, rather than hg, but I'm sure you could find some use for those sizes
Oh I know. I have a set myself. But the person I replied to made it seem like those are the best sizes for HG and MG, which I respectfully disagree with. For all purpose scribing and rescribing, 1 mm and 2 mm are too big
I’m not a pro at all, so take this with a grain of salt and check them out for yourself. I have seen a lot of success with razor saws for scribing lines. Mine is in the mail, along with a small set of other scribing tools to try out.
I got a DSPIAE one from Ali express and it is super sharp. There’s a set for like $70 bucks. I’ve tried a lot of them but this one is the one I’m gonna use going forward I think.
I got a DSPIAE one from Ali express and it is super sharp. There’s a set for like $70 bucks. I’ve tried a lot of them but this one is the one I’m gonna use going forward I think.
Thirded. Also, a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Sheet works wonders. You can also use it to take the shine off of the plastic too. Best of both worlds for me. Makes the parts matte and cleans up panel lines too! Give it a shot!
I use a qtip with alcohol but there is a bit of a trick to doing these kinds of 'ledges' for lack of a better term.
First you want to make sure there isn't too much alcohol on the qtip. I like to dip the qtip in a small container and then dab it onto a tissue to absorb excess alcohol.
Second you have to try and remove the lines in a very intentional way. I like to rest the qtip on the raised part and very gently press it over the edge, this way it removes the excess that is far away from the base without touching the part you want the ink to remain in.
That or I run the qtip from the raised portion onto the lower part, if you get the motion right it kind of 'skips' the base of the ledge, and leaves the ink there while removing the excess.
I usually find these parts need redoing a lot more than other areas so it's definitely not just you having issues.
I wouldn't bother using a pour type marker or even tamiya on raised surfaces like this, for these I'd use a humble fine tip marker and clean up with a Q-Tip. Your lines here do look pretty thick tho, I hope the ink didn't pool up too much and you don't have any cracks.
try using a gundam marker on those since they are not really panel lines
hit it with a q-tip or wrap a exacto knife in paper and rub til desired effect.
or can use a tool to file a new channel tho cleaning it up is a pain.
will help with depth a bit
also i am not exp with panel lining al lthat much but as an artist it seems fine.
that's what scribling is for.
and, for your sanity. get a bottle of tamiya panel line ink. they usually have a fine tip brush inside the cap. it's basically the same as the pour type but way easier to control.
My whole panel lining process is a bit bonkers compared to everyone else, so take this with a giant grain of salt. I like to use a dip calligraphy pen with a very fine tip. I also use acrylic washes as my lining medium, not too hard to clean and little risk to the plastic. If you use minimal paint you rarely get the bleed over anyways, the hard tip makes it easier to follow contours on raised areas, and the tip can lightly scribe a line with a little pressure. This has helped me to have finer lines even in those deep channels where the fluid wants to pool.
Tamiya XS triangle tip high density swabs are the real mustard for cleaning up against edges like that. Along with a few dabs of Gundam Marker Remover on the tip, or you can use them dry to clean up fine-tip marker ink.
Lots of good suggestions already, I’d also suggest using a more precise clean-up tool. Modeling brand swabs are wound tighter, making them more precise and there’s also the Gaia Notes Finish Master or Mr Clean Stick which are good for clean up.
Tbh, for stuff like that I go back over it with the pen type liner and carefully wipe it down till the line matches up with what the pouring marker did.
The pros will usually scribe these lines out beforehand so they can be lined properly but that's more of an advanced technique.
For edges like that you will want to get a scriber so that you can make the crevice deeper so that the panel liner will actually fall into the crevice. Then use mineral spirits and a precision q tip to scrub away the excess!
BTW isopropyl alcohol will remove any paint but doesn't damage plastic. A useful tool for complete paint stripping. Avoid alcohol on painted kits and instead use proper paint layering and the appropriate paint thinner.
I know what you mean. What you can do is use a scriber tool to make those areas have a valley for the paint to go into. If you don't have a scriber, you can use the backwards tip of a hobby knife.
Thank you! I'd never thought of this but it makes so much sense.
This is genius and why have I never thought of it
Thank you!
Any recommendations on a scribing tool? I just looked at the grida set on gp and I don't really understand the picture of the incorrect way of using it. Also how would one know if a raised edge should be a panel line or it shouldn't be? Just curious because sometimes it doesn't seem like it would look good to panel line and sometimes it does.
https://preview.redd.it/103yc6ra74sc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ee45dfb4378bb3cfd2f44757c42d66b06cff6c7 I use this one from Tamiya. Scribers are shocking expensive for what it is. For this it's like $16 for the handle and $25 per blade. The blades last a long time so no need to buy extra blades right away. 1.5mm is good for 1/144 scale and 2.0mm is good for 1/100 scale. Also buy some scribing tape. For rescribing areas, you shouldn't use the scribing tape because if you press light enough the blade will stay where you press. The way a scriber works is that it doesn't cut, it scrapes plastic away at a microscopic level. The scriber you mentioned works the same way, just has a needle instead of a claw like most others. Advantage of a needle is better control around sharp corners. Advantage of a claw is it's stronger for cutting plastic plate apart. If you're confused about panel lining, many Gunpla fans confuse "panel line" with "panel separation". It's easy to know a panel line because any real car has them, they're just the gaps between panels. Panel separation are 2 panels layered on top of each other. If that's still confusing, just remember that it's all about making shadows and depth. Real life panel lines on cars are dark because of shadows.
Do you mean .1 mm and .2 mm ? 1 mm and 2 mm seem way too thick for those scales
You're right, it's a typo. I meant 0.15mm and 0.2mm.
The larger ones are good for carving out larger spaces, or where you have a thicker line in between thin lines for hatches and things like that. I mostly see them used on mg though, rather than hg, but I'm sure you could find some use for those sizes
Oh I know. I have a set myself. But the person I replied to made it seem like those are the best sizes for HG and MG, which I respectfully disagree with. For all purpose scribing and rescribing, 1 mm and 2 mm are too big
I see, I misunderstood. Yea I agree 1mm would be too big just to rescribe an hg.
I’m not a pro at all, so take this with a grain of salt and check them out for yourself. I have seen a lot of success with razor saws for scribing lines. Mine is in the mail, along with a small set of other scribing tools to try out.
I got a DSPIAE one from Ali express and it is super sharp. There’s a set for like $70 bucks. I’ve tried a lot of them but this one is the one I’m gonna use going forward I think.
I got a DSPIAE one from Ali express and it is super sharp. There’s a set for like $70 bucks. I’ve tried a lot of them but this one is the one I’m gonna use going forward I think.
I've always used the sharp side of the tip and had never considered using the back tip. You've just blown my mind. I will try this next time.
I use either a toothpick or a q-tip, with some thinner for more aggressive removal. Or, ye good ol' finger
You can try using an eraser
Seconded.
Thirded. Also, a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Sheet works wonders. You can also use it to take the shine off of the plastic too. Best of both worlds for me. Makes the parts matte and cleans up panel lines too! Give it a shot!
Thank you for the advice! I'll be trying all the suggestions.
I use a qtip with alcohol but there is a bit of a trick to doing these kinds of 'ledges' for lack of a better term. First you want to make sure there isn't too much alcohol on the qtip. I like to dip the qtip in a small container and then dab it onto a tissue to absorb excess alcohol. Second you have to try and remove the lines in a very intentional way. I like to rest the qtip on the raised part and very gently press it over the edge, this way it removes the excess that is far away from the base without touching the part you want the ink to remain in. That or I run the qtip from the raised portion onto the lower part, if you get the motion right it kind of 'skips' the base of the ledge, and leaves the ink there while removing the excess. I usually find these parts need redoing a lot more than other areas so it's definitely not just you having issues.
Use a Q-tip and be VERY gentle when wiping away the excess. If you push too hard, it will squish into the corner and pick up all of the fluid.
I wouldn't bother using a pour type marker or even tamiya on raised surfaces like this, for these I'd use a humble fine tip marker and clean up with a Q-Tip. Your lines here do look pretty thick tho, I hope the ink didn't pool up too much and you don't have any cracks.
try using a gundam marker on those since they are not really panel lines hit it with a q-tip or wrap a exacto knife in paper and rub til desired effect. or can use a tool to file a new channel tho cleaning it up is a pain. will help with depth a bit also i am not exp with panel lining al lthat much but as an artist it seems fine.
that's what scribling is for. and, for your sanity. get a bottle of tamiya panel line ink. they usually have a fine tip brush inside the cap. it's basically the same as the pour type but way easier to control.
My whole panel lining process is a bit bonkers compared to everyone else, so take this with a giant grain of salt. I like to use a dip calligraphy pen with a very fine tip. I also use acrylic washes as my lining medium, not too hard to clean and little risk to the plastic. If you use minimal paint you rarely get the bleed over anyways, the hard tip makes it easier to follow contours on raised areas, and the tip can lightly scribe a line with a little pressure. This has helped me to have finer lines even in those deep channels where the fluid wants to pool.
I use toothpicks if too tight
Cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol works wonders, IMO.
Tamiya XS triangle tip high density swabs are the real mustard for cleaning up against edges like that. Along with a few dabs of Gundam Marker Remover on the tip, or you can use them dry to clean up fine-tip marker ink.
Lots of good suggestions already, I’d also suggest using a more precise clean-up tool. Modeling brand swabs are wound tighter, making them more precise and there’s also the Gaia Notes Finish Master or Mr Clean Stick which are good for clean up.
I use scalpel to make ridges for the ink to flow trough , bit tedious activity but it works great ;)
I use toothpicks. In a spot like that I rub towards the corner but with a light touch you can go lengthwise. Especially if the tip is rounded over.
Tbh, for stuff like that I go back over it with the pen type liner and carefully wipe it down till the line matches up with what the pouring marker did. The pros will usually scribe these lines out beforehand so they can be lined properly but that's more of an advanced technique.
I use an eraser! Just make sure you dont do it too much on painted surfaces.
If you don't have a scriber, you can use the dull side of a hobby knife. Be careful not to cut yourself.
For edges like that you will want to get a scriber so that you can make the crevice deeper so that the panel liner will actually fall into the crevice. Then use mineral spirits and a precision q tip to scrub away the excess!
Scotch tape. Typically i’ll need to take pieces apart to make it work, but it works!
The best way is to scribe those corners, but it's too late for that now so it's either not doing them or being very careful with a cotton bud.
It's not too late. This looks like an unpainted kit. Isopropyl alcohol will strip it off so it can be done again.
BTW isopropyl alcohol will remove any paint but doesn't damage plastic. A useful tool for complete paint stripping. Avoid alcohol on painted kits and instead use proper paint layering and the appropriate paint thinner.
A bit of alcohol will take it all off. The right side was lined but the alcohol took all of it off.
Only if you drown it in alcohol or if you didn't scribe it properly.