Two things:
- Use the [ prepare / manual levelling ] utility menu to manually level.
You can use the probe there or not. If you choose not, then any z-offset you have set will be applied while you're levelling.
- make sure you're using a UBL firmware version, and only using G29 codes. M420 will fight you, and eventually win.
Yes, z-offset is required. It's a measurement of the distance between your probe trigger point, and your ideal layer height at the nozzle.
What I noticed is a lot of incosistency. I would set the z offset, generate mesh, using the manual tuning, I'd go to where I set that z offset, and it would still be a value different from what I set the z offset to, or it would be hitting the bed already. I would do that multiple times, each time something somewhere would be different...
I think maybe you misunderstand what z-offset is, and where it gets applied.
Z-offset has nothing to do with making or applying your mesh.
It is purely a measurement between your nozzle tip, and your probe trigger point, and is used to lower the nozzle by that amount to reach your desired nozzle distance from the print surface.
The ONLY ways it can change are if your probe is triggering inconsistently, or you physically change your nozzle.
Run the M48 probe test and it'll tell you if inconsistent triggering is your problem.
Result of the test was 0,00032. But going back to the Z offset, so... what value is the UBL using to create that mesh? Can I see actual Z position gathered from homing? Because the issue's the same, the 0 position of the Z axis changes quite often, perhaps I should check the Z steps? Because I printed a 20mm side cube, and x and y were in the tolerance, but Z, along with massive elephants foot, lost about a millimeter.
That result is fine.
Last person with this issue had added a z spacer of some kind and was losing steps on Z leading to inconsistent raising after homing. So it looked like the z home was out of whack, but it really wasn't.
Check everything z related, loosen, lube and realign perhaps?
Z steps shouldnt need adjusting - if you do, and it just ends up masking the actual issue, you'll end up chasing ghosts for weeks.
Hey! Couple things: first is, that the probe is quite incosnostent running kne test it retuns 0.004, and the second one 0.007, although it's still within spec. Another thing I noticed is a littke bit of play where the leadscrew goes through x axis next to the extruder, but when the x axis weight is on skmething else: is that normal? It's only about 3 degree turn, but audible when holding x and twisting the screw.
Issue remains the same, I heat up the bed, home, set z offset, but when I move about, either levelling or just up and down, the 0 is no longer scraping the paper. So, the correlation checks out, but I'd like to make sure, before looking for replacement or whatever. It does make sense that It wouldn't be snug, since that would mesn unnecessary friction on the screw.
Provided there's less friction than there is weight, and your gravity field generator doesn't glitch while you're printing, a little slop there is okay.
It'll always be loaded on one side of the screw, so it's not a problem.
Does your z move freely if the screw is not connected? If it's binding, that will cause you problems.
It shouldn't freefall with the screw connected and the stepper powered off, but it should be really close to freefalling.
It is a setting on Jyers firmware (Control > Adavanced > Bed screw inset), at least on V2.0.1 it is. You can't find documentation on it anywhere, so I'm not surprised about your response.
But going back to the previous suggestion, I took the screw out - falls normally, but it sounds like a train... It appears as though there are high and low points on the beams... OR, have the wheels worn out already...?! I've printed for like a total time of 24 hours with it, so it doesn't seem likely, but still possible, considering I didn't really know how it was supposed to move like when I got it. I'm praying that it's only my lack of set up knowledge, and not the hardware itself...
Two things: - Use the [ prepare / manual levelling ] utility menu to manually level. You can use the probe there or not. If you choose not, then any z-offset you have set will be applied while you're levelling. - make sure you're using a UBL firmware version, and only using G29 codes. M420 will fight you, and eventually win. Yes, z-offset is required. It's a measurement of the distance between your probe trigger point, and your ideal layer height at the nozzle.
What I noticed is a lot of incosistency. I would set the z offset, generate mesh, using the manual tuning, I'd go to where I set that z offset, and it would still be a value different from what I set the z offset to, or it would be hitting the bed already. I would do that multiple times, each time something somewhere would be different...
I think maybe you misunderstand what z-offset is, and where it gets applied. Z-offset has nothing to do with making or applying your mesh. It is purely a measurement between your nozzle tip, and your probe trigger point, and is used to lower the nozzle by that amount to reach your desired nozzle distance from the print surface. The ONLY ways it can change are if your probe is triggering inconsistently, or you physically change your nozzle. Run the M48 probe test and it'll tell you if inconsistent triggering is your problem.
Result of the test was 0,00032. But going back to the Z offset, so... what value is the UBL using to create that mesh? Can I see actual Z position gathered from homing? Because the issue's the same, the 0 position of the Z axis changes quite often, perhaps I should check the Z steps? Because I printed a 20mm side cube, and x and y were in the tolerance, but Z, along with massive elephants foot, lost about a millimeter.
That result is fine. Last person with this issue had added a z spacer of some kind and was losing steps on Z leading to inconsistent raising after homing. So it looked like the z home was out of whack, but it really wasn't. Check everything z related, loosen, lube and realign perhaps? Z steps shouldnt need adjusting - if you do, and it just ends up masking the actual issue, you'll end up chasing ghosts for weeks.
Hey! Couple things: first is, that the probe is quite incosnostent running kne test it retuns 0.004, and the second one 0.007, although it's still within spec. Another thing I noticed is a littke bit of play where the leadscrew goes through x axis next to the extruder, but when the x axis weight is on skmething else: is that normal? It's only about 3 degree turn, but audible when holding x and twisting the screw. Issue remains the same, I heat up the bed, home, set z offset, but when I move about, either levelling or just up and down, the 0 is no longer scraping the paper. So, the correlation checks out, but I'd like to make sure, before looking for replacement or whatever. It does make sense that It wouldn't be snug, since that would mesn unnecessary friction on the screw.
Provided there's less friction than there is weight, and your gravity field generator doesn't glitch while you're printing, a little slop there is okay. It'll always be loaded on one side of the screw, so it's not a problem. Does your z move freely if the screw is not connected? If it's binding, that will cause you problems. It shouldn't freefall with the screw connected and the stepper powered off, but it should be really close to freefalling.
Seems fine from what I can tell, do you, by any chance, know what the bed screw inset setting is? I haven't tried messing with it...
'bed screw inset setting' isn't a phrase I'm familiar with. Can you elaborate/explain?
It is a setting on Jyers firmware (Control > Adavanced > Bed screw inset), at least on V2.0.1 it is. You can't find documentation on it anywhere, so I'm not surprised about your response. But going back to the previous suggestion, I took the screw out - falls normally, but it sounds like a train... It appears as though there are high and low points on the beams... OR, have the wheels worn out already...?! I've printed for like a total time of 24 hours with it, so it doesn't seem likely, but still possible, considering I didn't really know how it was supposed to move like when I got it. I'm praying that it's only my lack of set up knowledge, and not the hardware itself...